
Cabin · Sep 2026
The Kootenay Lake House
Nakusp, British Columbia

September 2026
Sunrise at Emerald and Moraine, golden color on the Icefields Parkway, and a fall larch hike that turned into winter.
We left Seattle around 9 a.m., which is a late start if you are hoping to make it to Banff or Canmore in one push. Instead we drove as far as Golden, BC, stayed the night, and ended the day with really good food at a local Mexican spot in town. Stopping in Golden was strategic. It put us close enough to catch sunrise at Emerald Lake the next morning.
We were up at 5 a.m. and made it for a beautiful sunrise. Afterward we walked around the lake shooting photos and video, then grabbed coffee at the cafe on the far side of the lake. The coffee was okay, but the hospitality was great.
From there we drove to Lake Louise for a better coffee at the Trailhead Cafe and took a breather. Then we headed up the Icefields Parkway to Bow Lake. There are no larches there, but in fall the golden bushes and grasses frame the turquoise water and the peaks perfectly. We finished the day in Canmore with a peaceful night and dinner at a steakhouse in town.

The next morning we took the Moraine Lake Bus Company shuttle up for sunrise. Most years we hike Larch Valley this time of year, but we have done it three times already and had never caught sunrise at Moraine itself. It is something you need to do at least once. We had coffee at the lake and walked the shoreline, then came back down to Banff for lunch, a walk around town and some shopping. With the US dollar strong against the Canadian dollar right now, things felt cheaper than usual.

Rain was in the forecast, so we packed our biggest plans into the first two days. On the stormy day we worked from our room and got coffee at one of our other stays in Canmore. That evening we caught sunset at Vermilion Lakes. There was no color, but it is still a beautiful spot.
On our last morning we walked Canmore at sunrise with no cameras at all. When content is your life, a walk like that is necessary.

We packed up the car and drove toward Revelstoke through mountain views, rain and snow. From there we took the ferry across Upper Arrow Lake toward Nakusp to reach The Kootenay Lake House, where we stayed the next three nights. It is beautiful and remote, so you really can relax.
One day we made the long drive out to Monica Meadows in the Purcells, expecting a fall larch hike. Instead about seven inches of fresh snow covered every larch and it was absolutely freezing. It was still beautiful.
We missed the ferry on the way out, so we took the other route back, an 8.5 hour drive home to Seattle.
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